Greenwich’s newest local paper drops news coverage after council pressure
Next week commuters using Southeastern rail services from Blackheath station to London will find that none going to London Bridge, Waterloo East or Charing Cross. Trains are going to Cannon Street and Victoria.
- The 521 bus goes from Cannon Street (stop MB) to London Bridge – there are also lots of other nearby buses heading in that direction and it’s a 10-15min walk too.
- Cannon Street or Victoria tube will take you to Embankment for Charing Cross [Tube map]
- London Bridge is on the Jubilee Line from Canary Wharf (DLR) or Canada Water (Overground).
Don’t forget that the (always busy, mind) 53 bus goes to Elephant & Castle and Lower Marsh (Waterloo-ish) from Blackheath Standard, more links to transport alternatives below.
1. Temporary new train times from Blackheath in August
I spotted this in Blackheath station yesterday, by the exit on Platform 1. This person is a kindred spirit, thank you whoever you are 🙂 See tweets below for more on the history behind this.
Train times from Blackheath next Tuesday to Friday (29 August to 1 September). I strongly recommend the CityMapper website (plus excellent and free app) – it’s really good for public transport.
The text of the poster says ….
“For those of you who missed
the South Eastern photo of the
handwritten time table (!!),
here it is typed up for ALL
to see clearly…
BELOW IS A SUMMARY OF MORNING SERVICES FROM
BLACKHEATH TO LONDON TUESDAY TO FRIDAY NEXT WEEK
THERE WILL BE NO TRAINS TO LONDON BRIDGE,
WATERLOO EAST OR CHARING CROSS.
BANK HOLIDAY MONDAY SERVICES WILL BE DIFFERENT.
05.45 CANNON ST
06.15 CANNON ST
06.24 CANNON ST
06.45 CANNON ST
06.54 CANNON ST
07.15 CANNON ST
07.24 CANNON ST
07.45 CANNON ST
07.54 CANNON ST
08.15 CANNON ST
08.24 CANNON ST
08.45 CANNON ST
08.54 CANNON ST
09.15 CANNON ST
09.24 CANNON ST
Brought to you by a commuter who could be bothered spending
10 mins typing this up“
2 Alternative travel arrangements
Thames Clippers ferries from Greenwich Pier or North Greenwich Pier (go to Canary Wharf, Tower Bridge, London Bridge, Bankside, Blackfriars, Charing Cross (Embankment Pier), Waterloo [‘London Eye’] and Westminster. The 108 or 422 buses will get you to North Greenwich, the 286 or 386 will get you to Greenwich by Cutty Sark for the Greenwich Pier. Greenwich Cutty Sark is also on the DLR line.
• ‘Next boat’ information from Greenwich Pier / North Greenwich Pier
Buses from Blackheath to Lewisham station take two routes in opposite directions. The 54 and 108 pick up at the bus stop next to Age Exchange / Shepherd’s Foods on the other side of the road from the station. The 380 picks up on the same side of the station – turn left out of the station, go past the barriered car park (there’s a Farmers’ Market there on Sundays) and past a 24 hour shop, Oddbins and a fruit / veg shop then up the hill past the shoe shop and the one selling electrical equipment. Keep going to The Crown pub from where the 380 will take you to Lewisham station.
From Lewisham station – walk there or bus. The route is prettier over the heath by Wat Tyler Road (the 380 bus route). DLR goes to Bank via Canary Wharf (also on the ferry route).
From New Cross (53 bus) or Denmark Hill (Blackheath train to Victoria stops here).
The other day, while doing some housework, I remembered the hardworking and brilliant ‘maid of all work’ in a television programme I saw years ago when I first moved to Blackheath, called The 1900 House. I’ve discovered that the whole programme is available to watch again and spent yesterday watching it on my day off while rain and thunderstorms raged outside. The programme was filmed in 1999 and moved a modern family into a house as it would have been in 1900, to create a living history documentary to see how they found the experience of being Victorian. Tough as it happens, but they enjoyed a great deal of it, as did the audience.
There’s a lovely bit a few weeks in where Joyce (the mum) is reflecting on a point at which she’d had enough and just wanted to ‘put on her hat and walk out’. That sounds a very Victorian way of expressing it – no-one really wears everyday hats these days – so it seemed like she was certainly in the right mindset. They all stuck it out. The maid, who was a cleaner in real life and whose mother and grandmother had been too, wasn’t in the programme for very long but there were scenes of her visiting a library to discover more about the very hard life of working class Victorian women who might work for 15 hours a day every day. They didn’t have much time (or resources to fall back on if they lost their job) to campaign for votes for women, something done more by middle class women. It was an interesting programme.
I was very new to Blackheath when it aired in 2000 and had completely failed to spot that it’s set in the next village, Charlton, with excursions into Blackheath Standard. I was reading the Wikipedia article which mentioned Elliscombe Road (‘hang on that sounds familiar’) and then spotted that it was the one in Charlton. The Clarendon Hotel features in the opening sequence as the family changes their 1999 clothes for 1900 ones and are then conveyed in a horse-drawn carriage to their new house in 50 Elliscombe Road.
Occasionally I take the 380 bus to Charlton rail station, alighting at the Sundorne Road bus stop on Wellington Road. The previous bus stop, also on Wellington Road, is the Elliscombe Road one and the bus announces the road name, so I’ve been hearing that name for years while paying attention to it so that I get off at the next one (incidentally I wonder if there are any two bus stops in London closer together than those two). I’d not like to drive a horse and carriage down Eastcombe Avenue though, which is further up in the journey from Blackheath, it’s a bit steep.
The Apple N’Orange fruit shop at Blackheath Standard opposite the library features in the programme too – it’s still there, same name, open late and on Sundays. At one point the eldest daughter gets a Saturday job there to stave off the boredom of having not that much to do and limited opportunities as a sixteen year old Victorian girl. We also see some bicycling going on around Blackheath Pond (Princess of Wales pond) and St German’s Place too.
- The Book of Household Management (Gutenberg free online) by Mrs Isabella Beeton
- Cassells Household Guide (free online)
- 1900 House (The Greenwich Phantom) – there are also comments from Joyce the mum there
1900 House: Featuring Extracts from the Personal Diaries of Joyce and Paul Bowler and Their Family (Amazon) – the book accompanying the series
Yesterday I discovered that there is a second level crossing within walking distance from my home. To be honest I’d been dining out on the news of the Charlton Lane crossing for a few years (very pretty brick pattern on the tunnel, level crossings a reasonably rare thing in London) after I discovered it while ambling around Maryon Park. But now I have two of them! This one is much smaller and is only used by pedestrians, and the track itself is only used by freight trains carrying ‘stuff’ from around the UK to Angerstein Wharf.
Yesterday’s discovery was an online one, after I was looking up John Julius Angerstein who created the gardens at Mycenae House. I recognised his name from wandering around Angerstein Wharf (well as near as I can get to it without being chased by wild dogs) and the internet told me about this crossing, just by Westcombe Park station. Angerstein’s grandson developed the railway and the crossing was included for workers to get across the line.
I had the day off today and went to visit it. Predictably I arrived just too late to see a long freight train disappearing into the wharf, which was a shame but I enjoyed meeting the crossing nonetheless. The line is very infrequently used as far as I’m aware (trains run several times a week rather than a day), though not by people – I met several while lurking there photographing it (pics below).
Map of Angerstein Crossing from Google maps.
When I lived in Camberwell I was close to Denmark Hill rail station and I loved being woken in the middle of the night by the rumbling of freight trains passing through, reminding me that I was safe and warm in bed while life was going on around me. It made the house vibrate.
Pleasingly it’s the exact same trains that pass through Denmark Hill that also arrive in Angerstein Wharf. They come from (or go to) Bardon Hill quarry in Leicestershire and they do this in a remarkably circuitous route which you can see examples of here (Bardon to Angerstein) and here (Angerstein to Bardon).
Other posts about Angerstein Crossing
Angerstein Level Crossing (31 August 2015) Know Your London
Angerstein adventure: Take a very rare Greenwich rail trip (31 August 2014) 853 blog
Angerstein railway (28 October 2013) The Greenwich Phantom
The Angerstein Railway (published 30 July 2013 but written in 1998) Greenwich Peninsula History
I popped into Mycenae House after a visit to Blackheath’s M&S for yesterday’s ParksFest and failed to take any photographs as my phone was charging at home, oops. Fortunately other people brought their cameras and tweeted some stuff (below). Looks like it was a really enjoyable day. I was surprised to discover how large the Mycenae Gardens are and amazed to see a large redwood tree, among some other pretty interesting trees. I signed up to become a ‘friend of’ the gardens and was given a leaflet on the gardens history.
Mycenae House (built in 1776) Gardens were created by someone whose name – Angerstein – I had heard of only in the context of freight trains shuttling between Angerstein Wharf and Bardon Hill quarry in Leicester. He filled the garden with some trees that have been there for over 200 years (a lovely old plane tree is still there) and after his death his collection of paintings also kicked off the National Gallery. Angerstein actually lived in ‘Woodlands’ (now a Steiner School) next door to Mycenae House.
The friends of the Garden had a couple of good tree quizzes – it turns out I’m better at recognising a species from its leaf than from a picture of the tree.
A few years ago I saw Shaun of the Dead in the gardens thanks to Pop Up Screens, it was fab though I got bitten by midges 😉 I don’t think they’re doing any screenings at Mycenae House but they do have films in Greenwich Peninsula in August (also Lee / Hither Green which is nearby).
Mycenae House (What’s On) – http://www.mycenaehouse.co.uk/whatson.html
Friends of Mycenae Gardens – https://mycenaegardens.org.uk/about/
Westcombe (Park) Society – http://www.westcombesociety.org/
Blackheath Society – http://www.blackheath.org/
Charlton Society – https://charltonsociety.org/
I enjoyed the bunting seen in the tweet above.
This weekend the Luna Cinema is screening Groundhog Day (Fri 7 July), Arrival (Sat 8 July) and Top Gun (Sun 9 July) in Greenwich Park.
The Rooftop Film Club is showing lots of films all summer on top of the Bussey Building in Peckham. The building is a three minute walk* from Peckham Rye, which is itself only 13 minutes from Blackheath station on the Victoria trains.
Pop Up Screens is showing Jurassic Park (Fri 25 Aug), Four Weddings and a Funeral (Sat 26 Aug) and Grease (Sun 27 Aug) in Manor House Gardens, which is listed as Hither Green but seems pretty Lee-ish. It’s a 17 minute walk from Blackheath station (according to Citymapper). You can also take the 202 bus to Stop F (on the opposite side of the road from the Sainsbury’s, Burnt Ash Road Lee Road (Stop ID: 58365), the 261 stops there too, then walk up a little bit to the crossroads and turn right into Taunton Road.
All the open air cinema screening organisations listed, and many others, are showing other films across London and a reasonably complete list is here:
*Don’t forget that the last weekday train from Peckham Rye to Blackheath is 23:51 and you might need to allow a bit longer to walk back to the station as they close off the main cut-through back to the station. I discovered this last night after a lovely screening of Pride and Prejudice there (with a fun Q&A with Joe Wright the director beforehand) which has a run time of 2h 15 and began at 9.45. I’d allowed 10 mins to get back to the station and had quite the sense of humour failure when someone tried to redirect me to follow a different, longer route in an opposite direction, risking losing the train – fortunately I won that argument, they opened the barrier for me and I got the last train home.
I’ve been enjoying this surprising article about competitive walking in Georgian Britain, it was particularly interesting to me given that it takes place partly at Hare and Billet in Blackheath which has been the site of my own recent excursions 🙂
Incidentally the reason I took up walking in and around London was after re-reading Dickens’ Oliver Twist in my mid-twenties. I’d always taken the bus everywhere before that (living in Camberwell at the time meant the tube was less of an option anyway) and enjoyed reading about people walking through bits of London I passed on the bus. It just hadn’t really occurred to me that one might or could walk around London, or that it might be done for pleasure, or health benefits. The people in the book had to walk from necessity (couldn’t afford the alternatives) so it probably wasn’t much fun for them.
I would have been no good at Georgian competitive pedestrianism though. Because I’d regularly bussed and walked the journey from Camden to Charing Cross, and from Charing Cross to Camberwell I’d assumed it would be plain sailing to follow the 53 route back to Blackheath. So one hot Saturday afternoon a few years ago I set off from Camden and walked all the way to Deptford before thinking better of it. According to my GPS tracker I’d done 14 miles in about six hours, which is fairly feeble (and the distance can’t really be much more than 9 miles – though I was following the less direct bus route). By the time I arrived at Deptford Bridge I was more shuffling than walking. A 53 bus arrived and I realised I wouldn’t be able to get on to it as I could barely lift my feet up, then someone with crutches arrived (overtaking me) and the driver lowered the platform for them and I was able to shuffle on. I remember my hip joints squeaking as I walked up the stairs to my flat and I thought I’d never do that again, though by the next day I was perfectly fine. These days I tend to restrict myself to 40 minute walks though, can’t be too careful 😉
Walking in London is actually quite hard-going and it’s not that related to the distances. You’re constantly keeping out of others’ way and at very regular intervals you’re required to cross roads which breaks your pace a fair bit, not to mention the general background efforts at being ‘London alert’. And in my case especially, trying not to get lost (this is why I follow the bus routes).